My Blog

Benefits of trees

03/08/2011 16:44:00

Benefits of Trees in the Okanagan

Most trees and shrubs in cities or communities are planted to provide beauty or shade. These are two excellent reasons for their use. Woody plants also serve many other purposes, and it often is helpful to consider these other functions when selecting a tree or shrub for the landscape. The benefits of trees can be grouped into social, communal, environmental, and economic categories.

Social Benefits

We like trees around us because they make life more pleasant. Most of us respond to the presence of trees beyond simply observing their beauty. We feel serene, peaceful, restful, and tranquil in a grove of trees. We are “at home” there. Hospital patients have been shown to recover from surgery more quickly when their hospital room offered a view of trees. The strong ties between people and trees are most evident in the resistance of community residents to removing trees to widen streets. Or we note the heroic efforts of individuals and organizations to save particularly large or historic trees in a community.

The stature, strength, and endurance of trees give them a cathedral-like quality. Because of their potential for long life, trees frequently are planted as living memorials. We often become personally attached to trees that we or those we love have planted.

Communal Benefits

Even though trees may be private property, their size often makes them part of the community as well. Because trees occupy considerable space, planning is required if both you and your neighbours are to benefit. With proper selection and maintenance, trees can enhance and function on one property without infringing on the rights and privileges of neighbours.

City trees often serve several architectural and engineering functions. They provide privacy, emphasize views, or screen out objectionable views. They reduce glare and reflection. They direct pedestrian traffic. They provide background to and soften, complement, or enhance architecture.

Environmental Benefits

Trees alter the environment in which we live by moderating climate, improving air quality, conserving water, and harbouring wildlife. Climate control is obtained by moderating the effects of sun, wind, and rain. Radiant energy from the sun is absorbed or deflected by leaves on deciduous trees in the summer and is only filtered by branches of deciduous trees in winter. We are cooler when we stand in the shade of trees and are not exposed to direct sunlight. In winter, we value the sun’s radiant energy. Therefore, we should plant only small or deciduous trees on the south side of homes.

Wind speed and direction can be affected by trees. The more compact the foliage on the tree or group of trees, the greater the influence of the windbreak. The downward fall of rain, sleet, and hail is initially absorbed or deflected by trees, which provides some protection for people, pets, and buildings. Trees intercept water, store some of it, and reduce storm runoff and the possibility of flooding.

Dew and frost are less common under trees because less radiant energy is released from the soil in those areas at night.

Temperature in the vicinity of trees is cooler than that away from trees. The larger the tree, the greater the cooling. By using trees in the cities, we are able to moderate the heat-island effect caused by pavement and buildings in commercial areas.

Air quality can be improved through the use of trees, shrubs, and turf. Leaves filter the air we breathe by removing dust and other particulates. Rain then washes the pollutants to the ground. Leaves absorb carbon dioxide from the air to form carbohydrates that are used in the plant’s structure and function. In this process, leaves also absorb other air pollutants—such as ozone, carbon monoxide, and sulfur dioxide—and give off oxygen.

By planting trees and shrubs, we return to a more natural, less artificial environment. Birds and other wildlife are attracted to the area. The natural cycles of plant growth, reproduction, and decomposition are again present, both above and below ground. Natural harmony is restored to the urban environment.

Economic Benefits

Individual trees and shrubs have value, but the variability of species, size, condition, and function makes determining their economic value difficult. The economic benefits of trees can be both direct and indirect. Direct economic benefits are usually associated with energy costs. Air-conditioning costs are lower in a tree-shaded home. Heating costs are reduced when a home has a windbreak. Trees increase in value from the time they are planted until they mature. Trees are a wise investment of funds because landscaped homes are more valuable than non landscaped homes. The savings in energy costs and the increase in property value directly benefit each home owner.

The indirect economic benefits of trees are even greater. These benefits are available to the community or region. Lowered electricity bills are paid by customers when power companies are able to use less water in their cooling towers, build fewer new facilities to meet peak demands, use reduced amounts of fossil fuel in their furnaces, and use fewer measures to control air pollution. Communities also can save money if fewer facilities must be built to control storm water in the region. To the individual, these savings are small, but to the community, reductions in these expenses are often in the thousands of dollars.

Jamie Pal

Lush Mountain landscape and design

"Improving the world we live in"

Soil Preparation and Maintenance

03/07/2011 20:58:00

Soil Preparation and Maintenance

The soil is the basic raw material of the gardener’s art. It should never be dismissed as a mere collection of mineral particles used to anchor roots or, worse still, as “dirt.” It is much more than that. Certainly, its basic structure consists of rock particles broken down by frost and thaw action, wind, and river flow, to produce the different soil “types” (clay,” sand, and so on). However, a large part of its make-up is organic matter — vegetable and animal remains in various stages of decay — along with air and water, all essential for the support of plant and animal life. All of this provides a home for millions of living organisms, such as soil fungi, algae, bacteria, insects, and worms, which work to provide just the right conditions for healthy plant growth. It is perhaps in the treatment of soil, more than anywhere, that organic gardening differs from other gardening methods.

The very first principle of organic gardening is to nurture and encourage this subterranean life so that it can support a much larger plant population than nature ever intended.

Few gardens can produce enough waste organic material to be self-sufficient in compost. But a remarkable amount of good stuff that is thrown away can be “harvested” by the organic gardener. The local grocer or produce market after closing time on Saturdays is an excellent source of green stuff. The local sports ground or golf club often have no means of disposing of massive amounts of grass cuttings and would be delighted to have them cleared away. Another excellent source of free soil conditioner could be a tomato nursery which grows in peat bags and has surplus at the end of the season.

Obviously, the first requirement for good compost is something to compost. Then the heap needs air, nitrogen, lime, water, heat, and bacteria. There are a great many old wives’ tales about what can and cannot be used, but the rule is very simple: anything entirely organic in origin can be composted — with a few exceptions.

Before deciding on any soil-feeding regime, you must first discover whether the soil is acid or alkaline. Acidity or alkalinity of soil is determined by its lime content, measured in units using the pH tests. The pH is measured in units on a scale of 1 to 14. Neutral soil has a pH of 7; anything above that is alkaline and anything below it, acid.

All plants need oxygen, carbon, and l hydrogen, which they obtain from the air, sunlight, and water. However, just as important for growth is the presence of a range of chemical elements in the soil. These are divided into the major elements (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium, calcium, and sulphur) and trace elements (needed in very small amounts but nonetheless essential). Oxygen, hydrogen, and carbon are needed in very large quantities. By comparison, the other nutrients are needed in much smaller amounts, but still in specific proportions: too much of one can inactivate another. For example, too much potassium can inactivate magnesium.Major elements nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K) are the major elements needed in the largest quantities. These are present in all general fertilizers, some of which also contain magnesium (Mg). Most soils have adequate levels of calcium and sulphur, which can be retained by regular additions of organic matter and by using good cultivation techniques.

Nitrogen One of the most important plant foods, a component of chlorophyll — the pigment which gives plants their green color — and a vital part of the structure of plant protein. It is responsible for growth of shoots and leaves.Deficiency is not unusual because nitrogen is easily lost by leaching in open soils and can be depleted by digging in unrotted material. With a deficiency, leaves turn yellow, particularly the older ones, and plants are stunted. Too much nitrogen causes plants to grow too quickly, with an abundance of “soft” leaves, often darker green than normal. The softer growth will be liable to an insect and frost attack.Treating deficiency: Apply a fertilizer high in nitrogen, such as dried blood.

Phosphorus The next most important element after nitrogen, phosphorus is needed in smaller quantities (only about one-tenth of the amount). Phosphorus, or phosphate, is mainly responsible for good root growth, so a deficiency causes slight stunting of the plant. It can be diagnosed by distinct blue, which affects the older leaves first. Sometimes the leaves darken and develop a blue/green tinge. Also, the plant’s root system is likely to be underdeveloped.Treating deficiency: Apply a dressing of bone meal fertilizer.

Potassium Also known as potash, this is required in the same quantities as nitrogen. It affects the size and quality of flowers and fruit, and is essential for the synthesis of protein and carbohydrates. Deficiency results in small, inferior flowers and fruit, and stunted plants. Older Leaves have yellowing around the edges, followed by brown scorching. Leaves may also become bluish and eventually bronzed all over. With excess potassium, plants are not able to take up magnesium and could cause an imbalance with other elements.Treating deficiency: Apply a dressing of rock potash.

Magnesium Another element needed in much larger quantities than many gardeners realize, magnesium should be present in about the same quantities as phosphorus. It is also a constituent of chlorophyll, so deficiency causes yellowing, which starts between the veins of the leaves. The deficiency generally affects older ones first. Magnesium deficiency is sometimes caused by plants not being able to take up the magnesium in the soil, perhaps because too much potassium is present, or because soil structure is poor, if there is insufficient organic matter in the soil.Treating Deficiency: Apply a dressing of seaweed meal, liquid seaweed, or liquid animal manure.

Calcium Another element required in relatively large amounts, calcium neutralizes certain acids formed in plants and helps in the manufacture of protein. Deficiency is rare in a well-managed organic garden, but plants sometimes develop an inexplicable inability to distribute calcium through their systems, though no one really knows why this occurs. The classic example is blossom-end rot in tomatoes, when the tip of the fruit blackens and rots. Lack of calcium also causes tip-burn on lettuce, black heart in celery and browning in the centers of Brussels sprouts. Deficiency is most pronounced in young plant tissue.Treating deficiency: There is no specific cure for calcium deficiency. Use such lime sources as wood ashes, hydrated lime and oyster shells, and build up a balanced nutrient level in the soil.

Sulphur Sometimes classed as a trace element, although sulphur is needed in fairly large quantities. Sulphur forms part of many plant proteins and is involved in the formation of chlorophyll. Sulphur deficiency causes plant stunting and yellowing of the plant, but the problem is rare since there is generally enough sulphur in organic soils because of the regular applications of compost and manure. Treating deficiency As soon as you notice a sulphur deficiency, apply a very light dusting of calcium sulphate (gypsum) over the soil surface.

Trace Elements Needed in very small quantities, but vital to plant growth. The six of major importance are iron, zinc, copper, manganese, boron, and molybdenum. In an organic garden, deficiencies are extremely rare because all the trace elements are present in compost, manure, and other bulky organic matter. Problems can occur when the action of trace elements such as iron, manganese, and boron is inhibited by alkaline, or limy soil, resulting in yellowing of rhododendron leaves and between the leaf veins in raspberries. It is best to prevent trace-element deficiencies occurring at all, normally quite easily achieved by continued use of bulky organic matter. Where deficiencies have occurred, treat soil annually with seaweed meal fertilizer.IronNeeded to make chlorophyll. Deficiency shows as yellowing between leaf veins, especially younger ones. More likely on alkaline soils, sometimes looks like magnesium deficiency.Treating deficiency: Spray with liquid seaweed, apply seaweed meal and/or manure.Zinc and copper A deficiency of either makes younger leaves mottled yellow; citrus trees develop “little leaf”.Treating deficiency: Dress with seaweed meal, compost, or manure.ManganeseNecessary for chlorophyll and protein. Deficiencies (stunting and yellowing of younger leaves) show more on alkaline soils.Treating deficiency: Spray with liquid seaweed; apply seaweed meal, compost, or manure.BoronImportant to growing tissue. Deficiencies more likely on alkaline soils: lead to a tissue breakdown: internal “corkiness”, especially in apples and many root crops, and brown-heart in celery and brassicasTreating deficiency: Once apparent, it is too late to save the crop. To protect next crop, apply seaweed meal, compost, or manure.MolybdenumUsed in protein production; deficiency shows as deformed growth, causing “whiptail” in brassicas (leaves become thin and strap like). Deficiency due to acid soil conditions.Treating deficiency: Add lime to raise pH. Spray plants with liquid seaweed fertilizer, dig in seaweed meal, and/or compost, or manure to the soil.google_ad_section_end

Green Manure This is a crop grown to add organic matter to beds that are empty for a period of time. It is sown specifically for digging into the soil to provide organic matter and plant food. It is also able to make plant nutrients available, so that when it is dug in they are nearer the surface and accessible to the next crop of plants.

Using Animal Manure for Organic Gardens start Animal manures are the very best sources of organic matter for your soil, though more difficult to obtain than compost. Manure can be used on any soil, not only to improve its condition, but also to feed it with nutrients. Use some, like poultry manure, with care because of their high nitrogen content.

Alternative Soil Conditioners for Organic Gardens Apart from compost and manure, many other organic materials can be dug into your soil or used as a mulch to help improve drainage or water-holding capacity, depending on the soil type. These materials should be looked upon only as soil conditioners: although some contain plant nutrients, they are not present in large enough.

Improving Garden Soil the Organic Way start All soil types benefit by the addition of bulky organic matter such as well-rotted compost or manure. This is the key to soil fertility and a healthy, fertile soil is the basis of the organic approach to gardening, and indeed the basis of all good gardening, organic or not.

Organic Fertilizers There is no scientific evidence to suggest that yields will be significantly heavier or that fruit and vegetables will actually taste any better if the plants are fed with organic nutrients instead of inorganic ones. The reason there is no scientific evidence is that, so far, there has been no research done on the subject. Most organic gardeners will assure any scientist, however, that he or she will certainly notice a difference in the taste of organically grown potatoes and vegetables compared to the inorganically grown ones found in the supermarket.

Fertilizers in Organic Gardens The use of concentrated fertilizer is probably one of the most controversial areas in organic gardening. Some gardeners claim that additional fertilizer is unnecessary with correct cultivation methods. Others employ methods identical to the chemical grower except that the products used are organic in origin.
Plants need a wide and varied range of nutrients to be present. Chemical growers supply those needs as immediately available fertilizers. The soil simply holds the nutrients, but then becomes devoid of life, and the lost nutrients must be replaced every year. Organic gardeners feed soil rather than plants. If high soil-fertility levels are maintained by regular additions of organic matter, the plants can simply draw on the material as required. All necessary nutrients will be added if you manage the soil as on pages 64-65. There is no danger of an overdose and a steady supply is ensured by all the various soil organisms.

Maintaining Good Soil for a Garden The ideal soil has a good crumbly structure, is rich in organic matter, drains enough to prevent topsoil becoming waterlogged in heavy rain, and provides the nutrients for healthy plant growth.

What is Soil? Soil is formed over millions of years by the physical or chemical weathering of rock. Clay soils are formed by chemical weathering, where the mineral composition of the rock is changed, usually by the action of weak acids. Other types of soil are the result of physical weathering, which mechanically erodes the soil either within the rock or externally.

Worm-Worked Compost Earthworms can be put to work by the organic gardener in the soil, compost or manure with highly beneficial results. Worms feed mainly on organic matter and, in the process, break the waste down and eject it as pellets. The resulting crumb structure helps to improve soil drainage and aeration and therefore provides a superior environment for root growth. Pellets also change nutrients in organic matter into a form readily available to roots. At the same time the water-holding capacity of the soil is increased considerably. The worms also produce enzymes which enable bacteria to work more efficiently, so the presence of worms in the compost or manure heap accelerates the decomposing process.

Lush Mountain landscaping kelowna

Lush Mountain services and pricing

03/06/2011 21:25:00

Lush Mountain Landscape and Design

If you have a yard we have a service for you…

Late winter and early spring…save money and have your yard ready for the season.

· Save money by having a free assessment on your sprinkler done, the city of Kelowna offers free irrigation assessments from mid-April-Aug 31. Call 250 863 3339

· Irrigation start-up in April is great way to get your system working at its peak; broken heads, cracked lines or clocks that are set too long costs you money. Our start-up fees are $55.00 and up per system (depending on number of zones). We turn on all zones and check to make sure all heads are working correctly, timer is set correctly (replace battery in clock if required), clean all filters for drip and will repair on site (repairs are extra). Also ask about how we can reduce your watering requirements with efficient landscaping –Proper planting, soil amendments, mulching, removal of grass areas, drip irrigation, etc.

· Late winter and early spring pruning is a must to keep your plants healthy, flowering, fruiting and long living. We prune small trees, shrubs, clean the dead parts of perennials and grasses, fertilize with organic fertilizers and prune for the type of plant. Not every plant can be pruned in spring you may lose most of your flowering (i.e. Lilac prune after flowering) or create excessive bleeding. Our fees for most yards are between $100-$300 (pruning and fertilizing) for average size yards.

Designing-If you’re stuck on what to do with your yard we can help; our designs will help you get your yard in order and looking fantastic. We don’t just make your yard look great we reduce your water use, choose plants that will survive in our drought conditions, design for low maintenance and create yards that will look better as time goes. Most hand drawn designs are between $100-$250 and Computer is from $150-400. If you do book more than $1000.00 worth of work with us we will give you a credit of half the design towards the landscape project.

Newat Lush Mountain- If you are serious about the environment we will design and install landscapes with minimal watering, minimal fertilizing, use sustainable materials for hardscaping, watering holding systems that supplement your irrigation and many more sustainable applications. These gardens do not cost as much as conventional landscapes and will not require much for maintenance.

We have added a blog to our website which has a lot of great info on sustainable landscaping, xeriscaping, watering efficiently, soil amendments, types of plants, etc.

We have also added new pictures to our website and will be adding tips for maintaining your garden

We continue to design and install many yards with these features…

· Water features, ponds, creeks and fountains

· Retaining walls- natural stone such as Firestorm granite or Mountain Ash stone

Modular concrete systems

· Planting of large calliper trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals and water plants

· Patios and walkways in natural stone or paving stone

· Automatic Irrigation systems

· Woodworking-Decks/pergolas/arbors/privacy screens/fencing

· Landscape lighting for accent, path, and ambience

Call Jamie at 250 826 1184 or email lushmountain@shaw.ca

“Improving the world we live in”

Sustainable solutions for landscaping

03/02/2011 22:26:00

Some of the solutions being developed are:

Reduction of storm water run-off through the use of bio-swales, rain gardens and green roofs and walls.
Reduction of water use in landscapes through design of water-wise garden techniques (sometimes known as xeriscaping)
Bio-filtering of wastes through constructed wetlands
Landscape irrigation using water from showers and sinks, known as gray water
Integrated Pest Management techniques for pest control
Creating and enhancing wildlife habitat in urban environments
Energy-efficient landscape design in the form of proper placement and selection of shade trees and creation of wind breaks
Permeable paving materials to reduce stormwater run-off and allow rain water to infiltrate into the ground and replenish groundwater rather than run into surface water
Use of sustainably harvested wood, composite wood products for decking and other landscape projects, as well as use of plastic lumber
Recycling of products, such as glass, rubber from tires and other materials to create landscape products such as paving stones, mulch and other materials
Soil management techniques, including composting kitchen and yard wastes, to maintain and enhance healthy soil that supports a diversity of soil life
Integration and adoption of renewable energy, including solar-powered landscape lighting

Favourite Plant Today: Thornless Honey Locust

Common name Thornless Honey Locust Latin name Gleditsia tracanthos var. inermis Type Tree Height 35-60' Spread 35-60' Light & Water Full sun: Zone 4 Bloom months Does not bloom. Bloom colour Foliage colour Yellow green Features Fall colour Notes Bright golden foliage in spring goes light green in summer and yellow in fall. Needs regular thinning/pruning to keep good shape and create pleasant dappled shade. Extensive root system. Thornless, seedless relative of Acacias.

Heath Tip:

Top Sunscreens

Top-rated sunscreens all contain the minerals zinc or titanium. They are the right choice for people who are looking for the best UVA protection without any sunscreen chemical considered to be a potential hormone disruptor. None of the products contain oxybenzone or vitamin A and none are sprayed or powdered. Here are a few...

Alba Botanica
Sun: Mineral Sunscreen Kids, SPF 30
Sun: Mineral Sunscreen Fragrance Free, SPF 30

All Terrain
Aquasport Performance Sunscreen, SPF 30
TerraSport Performance Sunscreen, SPF 30
KidSport Performance Sunscreen, SPF 30

Badger
Sunscreen Face Stick, SPF 30, Unscented
Sunscreen for Face and Body, Unscented, SPF 30
Sunscreen for Face and Body, SPF 30 Lightly Scented
Sunscreen for Face and Body, SPF 15 Lightly Scented

Beyond Coastal
Lip and Face Screen, SPF 30

Blue Lizard
Australian Sunscreen Sensitive, SPF 30+
Australian Sunscreen Baby, SPF 30+

BurnOut
Kids Physical Sunscreen, SPF 30+
Clean and Clear, Zinc Oxide Sunblock, SPF 32

California Baby
Sunscreen Lotion No Fragrance, SPF 30+
Sunblock Stick No Fragrance, SPF 30+
Moisturizing Sunscreen No Fragrance, SPF 18
Sunscreen Lotion Everyday/Year-Round, SPF 30+
Sunscreen Lotion, SPF 30+, Citronella
Sunblock Stick Everyday/Year-Round, SPF 30+

Sun Screen info found on the cosmetic data base.

By Jamie Pal

Lush Mountain Landscape and Design, serving the Kelowna and West Kelowna area

"Improving the world we live in"

What to do during a drought

03/02/2011 21:18:00

WHAT TO DO DURING A DROUGHT for your plants in Kelowna

• Doing nothing is sometimes best
• Avoid fertilizer - it can burn root hairs, cause drying out of the tissue
• Avoid pruning - it stimulates new growth, which uses water reserves
• Avoid pesticides - they can injure drought-stressed foliage
• Avoid watering, obviously
• Turn off your controller or adjust moisture sensors for minimum watering
• Allow plants to wilt, up to a point
• Remove unnecessary plants to provide more water for those remaining
• Use an anti-transpirant to reduce water loss
• Provide shade for plants if practical
• Cover the ground with a mulch to reduce evaporative losses
• Determine which plants can live without supplemental watering
• Allocate water to the plants that need it most
• Those in the sunniest parts of yard
• Water plants that will die from drought
• Water most valuable plants
• Use ET information to your advantage
• When you water remember: water the roots, not the surface of the soil!

Favourite Plant today: Yarrow

Common name Yarrow Latin name Achillea millefolium cultivars Types

Ground cover
Perennial

Height 24-36" Spread 24-36" Light & Water Full sun: Zone 2 Bloom months

June
August

Bloom colour Red, dark pink, light pink, mauve, cream, pale yellow, mixed colours Foliage colour Green ferny Features

Attracts butterflies
Deer resistant
Erosion control
Spreader/self-seeder ()
Winter interest

Notes E.g. Summer Pastels, Red Beauty All tend to spread by root and seed. If watered will need staking.

Health Tip:

The Canadian Cancer Society is concerned there may be a possible increased risk of cancer related to exposure to some phthalates. We are concerned about the long-term health effects where exposure to high levels may occur.

What are phthalates?

Phthalates (pronounced THA-lates) are a group of chemicals that can make products – usually plastics – softer and more flexible. They are sometimes called “plasticizers”, though there are many other types of plasticizers too.

Phthalates are used in a range of products, including:

PVC (polyvinyl chloride) plastics (this is a specific type of plastic used in some products, such as shower curtains)
medical plastics, such as PVC IV bags and tubes
children’s toys and supplies
cosmetics, such as nail polish and perfumes

There are many types of phthalates:

DEHP (diethylhexyl phthalate) is the most common and is used mostly in PVC plastics. It can be found in vinyl products and in many medical plastics such as IV bags and tubes.
DINP (di-isononyl phthalate) is sometimes used in PVC plastics, including children’s toys. In Canada, other phthalates are more likely to be used in children’s toys.
DBP (dibutyl phthalate) and DEP (diethyl phthalate) are most often used in cosmetics

What are we most concerned about?

The Canadian Cancer Society is most concerned about phthalates in certain medical supplies when they are used for children, and in children’s toys and supplies.

By Jamie Pal your Kelowna Landscaper

Why Xeriscape, the Okanagan environment, and growing conditions of the Okanagan

03/01/2011 21:49:00

Why Xeriscape?

If you want your garden to give you the maximum enjoyment and value for your expenditure of time and money, xeriscaping is the answer! Xeri (rhymes with terra) is the Greek word for dry. Xeriscaping is gardening with your natural environmental conditions rather than fighting against them.

BENEFITS OF XERISCAPE

Enhances the value of your home with an attractive and water conserving landscape.
Reduces water use- depending on the design and the plants used, water use can be reduced by over 50%.
Saves time– less watering, trimming, weeding and mowing.
Saves money– less water, chemicals, fertilizer, and replacement of dead plants.
Eliminates pesticide/herbicide use– plants growing in their ideal conditions thrive.
Protects your family’s health and that of the environment – including keeping poisonous chemicals out of our water.

Growing Conditions

TEMPERATURE

The mean daily temperature in January is between 0 and -5C (32 and 23F), while in July, it’s 20 to 22C (68 to 72F). However, in winter it is not uncommon for temperatures to plunge to -32C (-26 F), while in summer, they can soar to 40C (104 F). Hot, sunny summers and fairly mild, overcast winters put the Okanagan in plant hardiness zones four to six.
*USDA plant hardiness zones are calculated by the average lowest winter temperature- the Okanagan is zone 1 to 5.

PRECIPITATION

The average annual precipitation is about 280 millimetres (11 inches), approximately half of this falling as snow in winter. Summers are getting drier and two to eight weeks without any rainfall is becoming common. When it does rain, it often comes as a very short, heavy downpour in a thunderstorm. Frequently this welcome rain falls too fast for the parched soil to absorb the water and so it runs off into streams and storm drains.

SOILS

The soils have a tendency to be alkaline rather than acidic, with an average pH of 7.6. Due to low precipitation, growth of natural vegetation is slow and there is very little organic matter in the soils.

The Okanagan Environment

The Okanagan Valley features a string of seven lakes along its length of approximately 160 kilometres (100 miles). The valley was carved out by glaciers during the last ice age occurring in about 16,000 B.C. Today, the Okanagan Valley is a semi-arid climate, and includes the only desert in Canada at its southern end. The average annual precipitation is about 280 millimetres (11 inches).

Natural vegetation along the valley bottom, which is at about 300 metres in altitude (1,000 feet), is predominantly Ponderosa Pine and Bluebunch Wheatgrass habitat, along with cactus, Rabbitbrush and sagebrushes in the south.

The land slopes up on either side of the main stem lakes to 500 metres (1,700 feet) on the bench lands. Here in spring, the showy Arrow-leaved Balsamroot turn the hillsides yellow with their blooms against a backdrop of abundant white-flowered Saskatoon bushes. In summer the hills turn brown as the grasses die back for lack of rain. A fall feature is the red berries of the sumac, paired with the grey foliage of the sagebrushes and vivid yellow bloom of Rabbitbrush.

Wildlife include white-tailed and mule deer, yellow-bellied marmot, coyotes, cougars, lynx, black bears and the occasional grizzly bear, as well as moose and elk at higher elevations, and small populations of California bighorn sheep and mountain goats.

The valley has the greatest diversity and population density of bats of any region in Canada and it is host to more than 330 species of birds, more than 200 of which breed locally. Many plant and animal species are found nowhere else in Canada and due to development and human activity many are threatened with extinction.

Favourite plant today: Daylily

Common name Daylily Latin name Hemerocallis varieties Type Perennial Height 12-48" Spread 12-30" Light & Water Full sun: Part sun: Zone 2 Bloom months

May
June
July
August

Bloom colour White, pale yellow, bright yellow, gold, orange, pale pink, deep pink, red, violet, mixed colours Foliage colour Green, grass like Features

Attracts hummingbirds
Deer resistant
Edible

Notes Hundreds of varieties available, including bicolours and doubles. Bloom for 3-4 weeks but early mid and late season blooming varieties are available. Underplant with spring bulbs and add some grasses for easy care garden.

Health Tip:

The Canadian Cancer Society is very concerned about the use of cosmetic chemical pesticides, which can contain carcinogens, for the purposes of controlling unwanted weeds and plants on lawns and gardens (cosmetic use).

Cosmetic chemical pesticides have been linked to various cancers and children are at a greater risk. What’s more, these chemicals are unnecessary. Safe, effective, non-toxic alternatives exist and the use of these alternatives is good for business and can grow the green economy. Integrated Pest Management (IPM), or the use of pesticides ‘as a last resort’ to deal with weeds and insects, should not be included in cosmetic pesticide legislation.

When it comes to cosmetic chemical pesticides, the Canadian Cancer Society endorses the precautionary principle and is calling on the BC government to ban the sale and use of cosmetic pesticides.

Lush Mountain Landscaping "Improving the world we live in"

By: Jamie Pal

Water Smart soil

02/28/2011 16:05:00

A Water Smart soil is a living soil.

In a typical suburban lot, good quality living topsoil contains approximately 90 pounds of earthworms, 240 pounds of fungi, 150 pounds of bacteria, 13 pounds of protozoa and 89 pounds of arthropods and algae. This soil life and its food web cultivate and aerate the soil, improve its structure and increase the availability of water and nutrients for plants. If the organic matter in a growing medium is less than one per cent, all this life will die. Optimum amounts of organic matter in a living growing medium provide a garden soil thatfeels soft and crumbles easily and has few clods and no hard pan, drains well and warms up quickly in the spring and resists erosion and nutrient loss, does not crust after planting and supports high populations of soil organisms, soaks up heavy rains with little runoff and has a rich, earthy smell produces healthy, high-quality plants and does not require increasing fertilization, stores moisture for drought periods.

Topsoil & Organic Matter Quality

Growing medium is often a mix of topsoil and organic matter, and sometimes sand. Common problems to avoid when purchasing growing medium include: Topsoil that is too coarse (no silt or clay) or too heavy (no sand). A sandy loam is the optimumtexture.Topsoil that is weed infested. Seeds can lay dormant in topsoil for years. Look for a topsoil source that is relatively weed free. Compost that is weed infested or compost that is not yet decomposed, which robs the soil of nitrogen. Livestock manure often has both these problems. Both weed seeds and decomposition problems can be avoided with a proper composting process. Purchase growing medium from reliable suppliers and contractors who can certify that the products meet the specifications of the BCLandscape Standard and local bylaws.

Favourite plant today:

Rocky Mountain Juniper

Common name Rocky Mountain Juniper Latin name Juniperus scopulorum Type Tree Height 10-30' Spread 10-20' Light & Water Full sun: Zone 3 Bloom months Does not bloom. Bloom colour Foliage colour Blue Features

Deer resistant
Food for birds
Native to the Okanagan
Winter interest

Notes Our native juniper tree from which many cultivars are derived. Most are 10-16' tall and could be used as evergreen accent. Narrow ones could be used instead of cedar for a drought tolerant deer proof hedge. May need more water than the native species.

By Jamie Pal

Lush Mountain Landscape and Design

West Kelowna and Kelowna Landscaping

Drip Irrigation systems

02/24/2011 14:08:00

DRIP IRRIGATIONS SYSTEMS by Owen E. Dell

WHAT'S A DRIP IRRIGATION SYSTEM?A drip irrigation system applies water slowly to the specific root zone of plants. This is accomplished with emitters that are placed at each plant and apply water drop by drop, allowing it to soak in to the soil rather than running off or blowing away. Black polyethylene tubing, placed above ground, carries the water from plant to plant. A valve, automatic or manual, controls the system. A backflow prevention device prevents water from flowing back into the pressure main and contaminating the potable water supply. A filter strains the junk out of the water so it doesn't plug the emitters. A pressure regulator reduces the pressure to prevent the system from blowing apart. A valve (manual or automatic) controls the operation of the system. A pressure main supplies water to the system. If the system is automatic, a controller turns the valves on and off.WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF A DRIP SYSTEM?

1. Saves water
2. Reduces weed growth
3. Prevents runoff, puddling
4. Encourages deep root system
5. May be cheaper to install

WHAT ARE THE DISADVANTAGES?

1. Not applicable to certain plantings (turf, ground covers)
2. Fragile, easy to damage, subject to vandalism & rodent damage
3. Requires frequent checking
4. Emitters can plug up (bacterial iron)

DESIGNING A DRIP SYSTEM

1. Evaluate the landscaping (kinds of plants, water needs, soil type, sun and shade areas, slopes and level changes)
2. Evaluate the supply (well or meter, clean or dirty, pressure, volume)
3. Locate point of connection, backflow location and type
4. Lay system out in zones (sun & shade, high & low water-use plants, soil differences, slopes)
5. Calculate the number of emitters needed per plant, per zone
6. Determine whether to use drip tubing only or pipe manifolds
7. Determine location of valves and pressure mains.
8. Determine location and type of controller.

THINGS TO WATCH OUT FOR

1. Emitters need to be spaced more closely in sandy soils.
2. Filters are essential to preventing plugging of emitters.
3. Slopes present special design problems due to pressure changes.
4. Water in parts of Hope Ranch are not suitable for drip systems.
5. In most cases, backflow devices need to be higher than the emitters.

INSTALLING A NEW SYSTEM

1. Install pressure mains and control wires.
2. Install backflow devices, regulator, control valves.
3. Install controller.
4. Connect controller and valves to wires.
5. Connect pressure main to water supply.
6. Pressurize system and test for leaks.
7. Backfill and compact trenches.
8. Install plants.
9. Install drip tubing and emitters.
10. Flush lines and install end caps.
11. Test system.
12. Program controller.

RETROFITTING AN EXISTING SPRINKLER SYSTEM

1. Remove all sprinkler heads.
2. Cap all risers or disconnect the pipe at the valve.
3. Install a filter and a regulator at the valve.
4. Run drip tubing from the valve or connect to the old sprinkler pipe in the area to be watered.
5. Install emitters.
6. Reprogram the controller. (Install new controller if necessary)

Favourite Plant Today: Common name Feather Reed Grass Latin name Calamagrostis 'Karl Foerster' Type Ornamental grass Height 60" Spread 36" Light & Water Full sun: Part sun: Zone 3 Bloom month June Bloom colour Pale pink/cream Foliage colour Green Features

Deer resistant
Fall colour
Food for birds
Winter interest

Notes Excellent early grass in the garden in pots and mass planted. Very vertical in winter and good for watching wind motion.
zone 4

Health Tip:

Heavy Metals originate within the Earth. Mercury is one toxic heavy metal found in amalgam fillings, some of the fish we eat, and in the air in some parts of the country. Mercury is the second most toxic substance found on the earth. Some of the effects of exposure to heavy metals like mercury include: memory loss, fatigue, autoimmune disease, premature aging, speech disorders, cancer, depression, high blood pressure, gastrointestinal issues and chronic disease. Our bodies handle being exposed to heavy metals like mercury and lead by expelling it from the body. When toxins and heavy metals build up in the body symptoms and diseases start to grow. The only way to make sure your body is not toxic with heavy metal is to be tested. The most important tests are computerized scans of the nervous system. The nervous system controls all detoxification and healing in the body. When heavy metals like mercury and lead accumulate in the body the brain is responsible for expelling the toxins. Interference to the bodies nervous system when present blocks the brains ability to control detoxification and normal function. Interference to the nervous system must be removed immediately to restore health and vitality to the body.

By Jamie Pal

"Improving the world we live in"

Sustainable landscaping-the 13 deadly syndromes

02/23/2011 16:35:00

THE THIRTEEN DEADLY SYNDROMES by Owen E. Dell

1. THE SATURDAY MORNING SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: The urge to venture forth on weekends to the local nursery, to seek out new, mysterious and cheap plants, to bring them home and to look for a place to put them. This leads to a mish-mosh of plants that has no purpose, no appeal and cannot be maintained. The technical term for this is a "mess." CURE: Plan before you plant. Consider that the whole must be the sum of its parts and the parts must serve the whole. Choose a look, a colour scheme and a form for your planting. Use plants thematically, weaving them in and out of beds, repeating as music repeats. Never buy a plant unless you know what purpose it will serve in your garden. This also applies to garden furniture, plaster ducks and gazebos. Avoid impetuousness.

2. THE ONE-OF-EACH SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: Related to the Saturday Morning Syndrome, this is the urge to grow every plant on planet Earth, all at the same time and in the same two thousand square foot garden. This, too, leads to a mess.CURE: Limit the diversity of your plantings. For any given area, use one kind of tree, two or three kinds of shrubs, four or five kinds of perennials. Simple is beautiful.

3. THE SIXTY-SECOND SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: A sense of overwhelming urgency about the need to get it all done as soon as possible, resulting in action without prior contemplation, lots of expensive mistakes and nothing good to show for the efforts expended. Comes from watching too much television.CURE: Spend time with your garden. God put together the Earth in less than a week, but then he's a pro. Let your garden evolve. The best ones have been developing for decades, some for centuries. Slow down.

4. THE INSTABILITY SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: A murky understanding about what makes a garden really work. Bad decisions are made that haunt the gardener for years afterwards. Nothing ever settles down. The garden becomes more difficult to maintain rather than easier, as it should.CURE: Take a lesson from nature. A natural plant community reaches a "climax" condition in which it remains stable and self-maintaining until a disturbance. Gardens should do the same; they can do the same. Most of the work of gardening comes from poor design.

5. THE KUDZU SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: Planting plants that are invasive, too big for the space they're in, susceptible to pests and diseases, thirsty, maladapted to the climate or the soil. The never thrive, or they thrive too well or they just plain die. This is no fun for anybody.CURE: Choose plants carefully. Believe what the books tell you about their ultimate size, bad habits and needs. Don't assume that a plant is easy just because you've seen it growing all around town - it may be a nuisance all around town.

6. THE SAVANNA SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: Planting vast swards of lawn in a dry climate, most of it serving no useful purpose and all of it consuming enormous quantities of water, and needing constant mowing, fertilizing and fussing with.CURE: Reduce lawn areas to no more than 800 square feet for an average residence. We need the water for other things. We Americans put more fertilizer on our lawns than is used in the entire third world to grow food. Shame on us.

7. THE GROUND COVER SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: Assuming that there is some law that mandates the use of unbroken sheets of herbaceous, creepy plants everywhere there is not lawn or foundation plantings, and irrigating it with an overhead sprinkler system. Weeds poke through, bald spots appear, water bills strain the pocketbook and tempers fray. All for a boring expanse of one kind of dumb-looking plant.CURE: Use individual woody plants on slopes; they hold the soil better, are tall enough to keep weeds down and can be drip irrigated. They're cheaper to put in, too.

8. THE PARCHED EARTH SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: Faithfully raking up all the fallen leaves, stuffing them into plastic trash bags and sending them to the dump. This leaves the soil exposed to drying wind and sun, overheats the root systems of plants, permits the topsoil to blow away, and makes it necessary to water constantly.

CURE: Use a mulch. Mulches help keep weeds down, keep the soil cool, are nicer to look at, and reduce water needs by as much as 80 percent. Shredded bark is a good choice, or crushed rock.

9. THE SPRINKLER SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: Using sprinklers to water flowerbeds, borders, the walls of houses, passing cars and innocent children. Water runs off into the street and never soaks into the soil. Plants suffer, sidewalks become slippery, water bills go up.

CURE: Convert to drip irrigation wherever you have individual plants. Sprinklers are for lawns only. For ground cover areas, see syndrome 7.

10. THE SUCH-A-DEAL SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: Hiring the cheapest person to do landscaping, assuming that any derelict with a pickup truck and a shovel is good enough to do the job. Almost always results in serious regrets and wasted time and money.

CURE: Hire qualified, licensed contractors. They're tested and licensed by the state and are the only people legally permitted to do landscaping. They have insurance in case somebody gets hurt. You have recourse in case something goes wrong. Choose carefully, relying on references as well as the charming personality of the contractor. Never hire the lowest bidder. You get what you pay for.

11. THE BUILDER'S EMPORIUM SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: Related to Syndrome 10. The compulsion to buy the cheapest materials to do the job. These are put in at great effort and break down/die/stop working soon afterwards. It costs four times as much in the long run to remove the offending materials
and replace them with something of quality.

CURE: Buy the best, forget the rest. Shop where the pros shop. Pay top dollar if you must? it's far cheaper and more satisfying in the long run.

12. THE PLASTER DONKEY SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: After the job is finished, adding gratuitous tacky knick-knacks and incongruous plants that have nothing to do with the original design. These touches ruin the intended look and functionality of the garden and serve no purpose other than to trumpet the bad taste of the perpetrator to all who visit.

CURE: Think of your garden as if it were a fine work of art. Suppose you owned a Van Gogh ? would you get out your paints and add a few flowers here and there to jazz it up a bit? Of course not!

13. THE BAYOU SYNDROME
SYMPTOMS: Watering every day, or every Tuesday, or when the surface of the ground is dry, or when it's hot and you just feel like watering. Bad for plants, bad for the water supply.

CURE: Watch plants for signs of water need - loss of shine, slight wilting, yellowing of older leaves, then water. Not before. Everyone over waters ? it's unnecessary, wasteful and inconsiderate.

. Mix a couple of kinds for variety and a more natural look.

Favourite plant today: Common name Red Osier Dogwood Latin name Cornus serica Type Shrub Height 6' Spread 6' Light & Water Part sun: Zone 3 Bloom month May Bloom colour White Foliage colour Green Features

Food for birds
Native to the Okanagan
Winter interest

Notes Red branches attractive in winter. Important native food for deer.

Health tip:

Fitness and health

As a society, we’re just not as active as we used to be. Previous generations were much more active in their daily life than most of us are. Many people walked or cycled to work. Jobs in factories or on farms required a lot of physical activity, as did housework. Household tasks like cutting the lawn (with a push lawn mower) or beating the dust out of carpets (rather than vacuuming) kept people more active on a daily basis.

Building activity into our busy lives takes some effort, but there are lots of good reasons to be active. Being active:

keeps your heart healthy
makes your bones and muscles stronger
helps you feel better about yourself

Research shows that regular physical activity can help protect against certain types of cancer such as colorectal, breast and uterine cancer. Being active also keeps your heart healthy, makes your bones and muscles stronger and helps you feel better about yourself. Physical activity is also one of the best ways to achieve and maintain a healthy weight. People who are overweight are at greater risk for cancer of the breast, esophagus, gallbladder, kidney, liver, pancreas and the uterus.

Read more: http://www.cancer.ca/British%20Columbia-Yukon/Prevention/Nutrition%20and%20fitness/Fitness%20and%20health.aspx?sc_lang=en&r=1#ixzz1EpdFHkK0

By Jamie Pal

Lush Mountain Landscape and Design

Xeriscpe- 7 Principles

02/19/2011 22:13:00

The Seven Principles of Xeriscape

PLANNING & DESIGN To begin, think about how you would like to use your property and what features it could have. For example, would you like a patio, a big shade tree, a butterfly garden, or a vegetable garden? Where do you need pathways? How much sun is there in different areas? Are there views you want to frame or things you want to hide? Next, you can make a scale drawing of your property, house and any plants or features that you want to keep. Then try out your ideas using overlays of tracing paper. This will help you envision your finished garden and accurately locate the features you desire, as well as plan the sequence of work.
SOIL PREPARATION Whether you have sandy soil or clay soil, the addition of organic matter (i.e. compost, manure) will help your plants to thrive. Organic matter increases moisture retention and feeds your plants naturally. Spending time and money to create good soil in your garden will ensure healthy plants and save you time and money by greatly reducing maintenance, plant replacement, and water use. PRACTICAL TURF areas traditional turf grass, as it is commonly maintained, is the most labour-intensive, water-thirsty, chemically-addicted landscaping. Have only as much lawn as you need for activities such as children’s play areas. Lawn grows best in at least six inches of good soil, with lots of organic matter and good drainage, in a flat location in the sun and away from tree root competition. Choose a turf grass mix that is suited to the climate. In hard to mow areas, such as slopes, plant low-maintenance, drought-tolerant ground covers. EFFICIENT irrigation group plants with similar watering needs in the same irrigation zone. Shaded areas need less water than sunny ones, so they need to be on different zones.For plants that must have supplemental moisture, water deeply (one inch/watering is recommended) and less often so the water soaks down, causing plant roots to grow deeper where they will be less vulnerable to drought. Be sparing with water in the spring so plants are encouraged to grow longer roots.In the driest weeks of the summer, one inch of water per week is sufficient for a healthy, mulched vegetable bed or lawn. To find out how long to run your sprinklers, measure the time it takes to fill the one inch depth of tuna cans as you water in each zone.Drip irrigation is the most efficient use of water. Maintain automatic systems, and ADJUST THEM REGULARLY to compensate for seasonal changes and weather. Do not water in the heat of the day. APPROPRIATE PLANT selection each variety of plant has growing requirements for light, moisture and soil that need to be met for it to thrive.
To find water-wise plants suited to your garden’s conditions search our Plant Database.

All plants will need watering until they are established. However, if you cannot water, choose plants that are extremely drought-tolerant and plant them in the fall so they can get their roots established before the next summer’s drought.Creating diversity by using a large variety of plants, will invite beneficial birds and insects into your garden, thereby dramatically reducing pests problems. mulching mulch is like a protective blanket over the soil. It will conserve soil moisture, reduce weed growth, prevent a hard crust from forming on the soil surface, and protect plant roots and the soil from extreme cold and heat.This vital component of xeriscape gardening can be used in any existing landscape. Be sure to weed and water thoroughly before mulching.Organic mulches such as compost and well-rotted manure also build up the soil and feed plants so chemical fertilizers are unnecessary.Rock mulches intensify heat around plants and your home. They make it difficult to weed and clean up fallen plant debris. Weed seeds will grow in the dust that accumulates under the rocks on top of landscape fabric.

Xeriscape posting from the Okanagan Xeriscape association

Favourite Plant Today: Yarrow Latin name Achillea millefolium cultivars Types

Ground cover
Perennial

Height 24-36" Spread 24-36" Light & Water Full sun: Zone 2 Bloom months

June
August

Bloom colour Red, dark pink, light pink, mauve, cream, pale yellow, mixed colours Foliage colour Green ferny Features

Attracts butterflies
Deer resistant
Erosion control
Spreader/self-seeder ()
Winter interest

Notes E.g. Summer Pastels, Red Beauty All tend to spread by root and seed. If watered will need staking.

One of the main Nurseries we use for or plants is Dogwood Nursery www.dogwoodnursery.com for hardscaping we use Burnco www.burnco.com, Rockworld www.okrockworld.ca and Sun Oka soils.

Health Tip:

Helping kids to eat well

Healthy eating is especially important for children to make sure they get all the nutrients they need to grow. And helping your kids to eat well now will make them more likely to eat well as they get older.

Eating well and being active every day can also help kids maintain a healthy weight. In Canada, obesity among children and teens is increasing even faster than in adults. Health problems related to being overweight are now happening at a much earlier age. And obesity has been linked to the possibility of some cancers developing later in life.

Tips

Set regular times for meals and snacks. Kids tend to snack more when there’s no real schedule and are more likely to reach for sugary treats.

Plan to eat at least one meal together as a family every day. If this seems impossible with a busy activity schedule, be creative. You can have a picnic after a game or practise. Or set aside one night a week as family dinner night.

Make healthy eating choices yourself. Children learn by watching you.
Encourage your child to eat slowly. When we eat too quickly, our body thinks it needs more food to feel satisfied.
Discover new foods with younger children. Get your kids to name the vegetables and fruits in the produce section at the grocery store.
Grow some vegetables of your own together. Container gardening is easy and the kids will get to eat what they grow.

Visit a farmers’ market in your community. It’s a good way to learn about where your food comes from and get some fresh produce at the same time. Buy local vegetables and fruit in season, such as strawberries, peaches, apples, squash and pumpkin.

Get the kids involved when you’re cooking. They can help with simple tasks like washing the vegetables, stirring chili or putting toppings on pizza.
Sign the kids up for cooking classes if they really show an interest in the kitchen. Major grocery stores and local community centres in many cities offer special classes.

Remind kids to drink fluids Young children are at a higher risk of becoming dehydrated. Encourage kids to drink water often throughout the day. Offer milk and 100% juice at meals or snack times only.

Read more: http://www.cancer.ca/British%20Columbia-Yukon/Prevention/Reduce%20your%20childs%20risk/Helping%20kids%20to%20eat%20well.aspx?sc_lang=en&r=1#ixzz1ETbzVH1m

By Jamie Pal Certified Landscape Designer and Certified Technician- Lush Mountain Landscape and Design